Hopetoun to Cape Le Grand National Park

Day 242

Pack up and leave Hopetoun, bound for Esperance a couple of hours drive further along the coast.

Arrive in good time and call in at the visitors in the hope of getting some information on a nearby National Park as we have heard that it is a good one and well worth staying there. As we walk into the visitors centre there is a notice outside saying that both campsites in the National Park are full! Not a good start we think but head in to ask anyway. Turns out they have had queues of people outside the park that morning and there is no way there are any spaces left. The woman suggests that if we really want to go we should turn up about 7 in the morning and get in the queue (a la Cape range)!

Back in the van slightly dejected we realise that it is a Friday, it’s a nice day and it’s still school holidays so no wonder they are full! Looking at our options we decide to retrace our steps by 70km and take a turn off to Quagi beach, down a ‘gravel’ road for 10km’s and hope that they have a space there. We do the 70km no problem but the gravel road is very rough and it takes us ages to do the final bouncy 10km to the campsite.

Once we are there we are relieved to find that there are plenty of sites and even more relieved when we see that it only $2 a night! The campsite is alright as well, they have toilets and an outdoor shower and we set up Polly and go and investigate the beach.

It’s a lovely bay with a rocky outcrop at one and miles of empty beach stretching off in the other direction and we return to the van happy that we made the trip down that road after all.

Day 243

After a great night’s sleep listening to the waves crashing we awake to find it’s a beautiful sunny day and decide to hit the Beach.

Head off for a stroll to explore the rocks and after a couple of hours exploring return to the beach for a swim and a sunbathe (it’s a hard life).

In the afternoon have a big push on our Christmas jigsaw, which we have been carting around, half-finished for ages and make a pact that if we don’t finish it today its going back in the box. Despite our best efforts we are nowhere near finished (it doesn’t come with a picture) by the end of the day and so defeated it goes back in the box to fight another day. Beaten by a jigsaw!

Day 244

Pack everything up, which seems a lot easier now that we don’t have a half-finished jigsaw getting in the way and head back along the gravel road (these things invariably seem easier on the way out) and back into Esperance only to find that it is closed on Sundays! Literally the only thing we can find open is a fish and chip shop and so it’s fish and chips for lunch then (Rob and Davey will be happy).

Before checking into a campsite for the night we take a short drive along the coast to what has been billed ‘Australia’s best beach’ and did in fact win that accolade in 2006. Twilight beach is absolutely beautiful, the sand is amazing, very soft and almost powdery, it’s so fine and as white as we have seen anywhere else (including Whitehaven beach)! The water too is crystal clear and (although a little nippy) has a wonderful aqua marine colour to it. Plus there are some great big rocks plonked there, perfect for climbing on! No wonder this is W.A.’s most popular beach. Absolutely beautiful.

The time seems to pass so quickly here and before we know it it’s time to go and get a campsite for the night. Back in Esperance and just past the centre we stop at Bathers paradise campsite and check ourselves (and Polly) in for the night. Set up and as its still hot so we head down to bathers bay for a late afternoon dip to cool off.

The beach here is pretty nice too and we enjoy a cooling swim in the bay, complete with tankers coming in to load up at Esperance docks in the background!

Day 245

Up early for our departure and a second attempt at getting in to the National Park. It’s a grey, overcast and drizzly morning but we aren’t going to let that dampen our spirits (boom, boom) and so we pack up and hightail it off to the supermarket (open today as it’s Monday!). Shopping done we jump back in Polly and head off towards Cape Le Grand National Park. It’s about 60km away and in the drizzle takes us a while but we arrive at Lucky bay nice and early and are overjoyed to see that there are spots available.

As soon as we have parked up and popped the top Skippy is round checking us out and we have to shoo him off to stop him coming in the van!

The weather hasn’t improved that much and so after we have settled in and had some lunch we head off for a walk (hike) over to the next bay complete with raincoats and jumpers!

The rain does stop but it is still grey as we arrive at thistle cove and walk down over the rocks to look at the ocean. There are some good rocks here too, one that looks like a frozen wave (which I try to surf) and one that looks decidedly like a dog’s head.

Along with that are a number of small caves which I am straight in but get a bit frightened at the prospect of snakes and so am straight back out again!

We stroll back the way we came to Lucky bay and Skippy (plus joey) are there waiting for us, sniffing around the van looking for something to eat.

Pretty good facilities here so we spark up the barbie for tea and retire hoping the weather will have improved by the time we wake up.

Day 246

Another grey and windy start to the day puts pay to any thought we had of an early swim so instead go for a stroll along the beach and clamber up some more rocks at the end to have a look. More small caves for me to explore (whilst Carmen waits at a safe distance) and lots of clambering later we return to Polly for some lunch.

The weather seems to improving so we go for another stroll along the beach but this time head right around to the other end of the bay. The wind is pretty strong and of course it’s a headwind the whole way which makes the going slow and at times difficult but as we reach the far end the sun pokes its head out and we think we have found paradise.

Rocky fingers project into the sea to form beautiful, secluded beaches and the water seems to have gone from murky grey to an iridescent aqua marine in a matter of minutes.

More giant rocks to clamber over (always good) and a lookout offering you sweeping views back along the bay make this well worth the walk (even with the wind).

The walk back (with the wind) is thankfully a lot easier and after a hot shower and a hot meal (and another visit from Skippy) we hit the hay, happy explorers.

Day 247

Sunny this morning but the wind is still blowing and so we decide to check out some of the other beaches in the park. First stop is Le Grand beach, just a short drive through the park. The beach here is big and wide and stretches off further than you can see with 4WD’s zooming up and down it. We take refuge from all the traffic at the end of the beach and find a sheltered spot out of the wind to lay down our towels and head in for a swim.

The water is pretty cold but lovely and we both splash around for a bit before returning to the sand for a lie and a sunbathe.

Next stop is Hellfire bay and what a cracker it is too! It’s a smallish, protected bay, pretty much out of the wind with the now commonplace squeaky white sand.

It’s pretty much deserted again and the water is the same, crystal clear aqua marine colour. We can’t believe our luck to have found such beautiful beaches and enjoy a swim and a laze about in the sun for the afternoon before returning to the campsite for a slap up meal and a cold beer, perfect!

Day 248 (Australia day)

The sun has got his hat on for Australia day! Every other car and campsite seems to be decorated with the Australian flag although on closer inspection a lot of them are the West Australian version (A yellow circle with a black swan in place of the southern cross) just adding fuel to the ‘W.A. is another country’ fire!

After a leisurely breakfast we hit the beach for a swim at Lucky bay, seemingly along with the rest of the campsite! It’s as beautiful as before but the wind is still blowing and so after a few dips and few lies in the sun we return to the van for some R and R.

I head out on the bike in the afternoon and decide I will go along the unsealed track leading from the campsite to the next bay along, Rossiter bay.

It’s only 6km away but the road is pretty badly corrugated and there is the ever present headwind to deal with as well so by the time I arrive I am knackered and collapse on the beach to get my breath back (and some feeling back in my legs).

As I sit there Skippy bounces into view and stops right in front of me to have a look and see what I am up to but once he decides I don’t have anything to eat he bounces off again.

As always the return journey (with the wind) is far easier and I fly along, glad that I have suspension over the rough road and arrive back hot and sweaty but glad that I did it and more importantly glad that we didn’t decide to drive down there in Polly!

Warren National Park to Hopetoun

Day 235

Pack up and leave Warren National Park and hit the road again, first task of the day is to deal with the gravel road out of the park. We had been warned that there were steep sections on the way and neither of us were really looking forward to it. It turned out to be not too bad, we took it nice and slow and Polly took it all in her stride and before we knew it we were back on the bitumen and speeding along.

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After a brief stop in Pemberton to do some shopping and more importantly post off a birthday card to my dad (Happy birthday for the 20^th dad) we continued on a lovely drive through the forests towards Walpole. Made it in good time and after the regulation stop at the tourist we continued just out of town to coalmine beach (Much nicer than it sounds).

Set up and hit the beach for a stroll and a swim.

The beach is on an inlet and so not strictly on the ocean but pretty all the same and after a short walk up and down I am straight in (Carmen plays the role of lifeguard and sits on the beach).

It’s pretty nippy but nice and refreshing and once I am done splashing about we sit on the beach only to see a couple of dolphins playing about in the water in front of us (they probably got a whiff of Englishman and came to have a look). They do a few laps and head back off out towards the ocean and we return to the van happy that we got to see them.

Back at the van I decide to chop up and dry some of the chillies we brought from the ‘fruit machine’ the other day and at the same time thought I would test one out.

They say a picture says a thousand words but let me just add that they are bloody hot!

Day 236

Off on a scenic drive around the area and first stop is the Giant tingle tree only a short drive, up into the forest. Tingle trees are massive with trunks up to 20 metres in circumference and up to 75 metres tall so driving through a forest of them they all look pretty giant and we wonder how big the ‘giant’ one will turn out to be. Arrive at the car park and stroll off and every tree we see we think that must be it, these things are huge.

Lots of them have strange lumps and bumps on them as well which apparently are reactions to insect attacks (just like when we get bitten). We round a corner and then we see it, by far the biggest tree here and it dwarfs even the other trees (no small feat). There is even a picture of a van parked inside the burnt out trunk and Polly would easily have fit inside with room to spare!

We walk around it a few times trying to take in its size and return to the van humbled by the big tree (It reminded me of the Deku tree from the legend of Zelda for those that know it).

Further along the gravel road to our next stop at circular pool, a natural pool perfect for a swim on a hot day (such as today). Jump out of the van for a look and once we have decided to swim head back to change into our swimmers. Hang on where are the keys…

Look through the window and there they are, still in the ignition!

Not a problem Carmen has a spare in her bag… in the van!

Bugger (the clean version of what was said).

Try all the doors and windows but everything is locked (of course) and just as we are wondering what to do now a woman returns to her car next to ours. Explain what has happened and luckily her husband has a phone (with a signal) and so we ring the RAC man to come and help us. Turns out the couple are staying in the same van park as us and so after making sure we are OK and leaving us with some water they head off and we sit in the shade and wait for the man.

Luckily he doesn’t take long to arrive and even less time to open the door with what amounts to a bent coat hanger (it really is that easy) and before we know it he is on his way and we are back in the van. Decide to make the best of it and go for a swim after all so change and head down.

The pool is nice and as I sit on the rocks overlooking the water I feel something slimy on my back and when I turn around to look there’ s a giant leech there, attempting to suck my blood!

After a bit of flapping and several attempts to pull it off (they are slippery suckers) off he comes and we decide to call it a day at circular pool before anything else happens (they say bad luck comes in threes)!

On to our final stop of the day at the treetop walk in the Valley of the giants. A suspended walkway which takes you up to 60 metres above the ground and right into the canopy of the giant tingle trees.

The walkway is spectacular and although pretty short we spend a good while ambling along and admiring the view from the tree tops and out over the valley beyond before returning to ground level and going on a short walk around the base of the trees.

Both tired after our eventful day we return to the van and head home and after thanking our rescuers again (and being invited to dinner in Albany!) we retire for an early night.

Day 237

Up, out and on our way at a reasonable time this morning but rather than continue all the way to Denmark (the town in Western Australia not the European country!) we decide to stop at a campsite at Parry beach along the way.

Glad we did as well it’s a lovely little spot just up from the beach and its back to basics camping again, toilets and showers and nothing else, lovely.

We set up and go to investigate the (almost) deserted beach and have a walk around the rocks before jumping into the briney blue to cool off.

This is well and truly the Southern Ocean now and its nice, not too cold but Carmen (after going in up to her knees) decides that it is too cold and sits on the beach whilst I muck about in the water.

A treat in store this evening as some friends of the camp hosts and putting on a musical soiree in the front garden of their little cottage. As an added bonus they play two types of music, Country and Western! So after an early tea we head down to listen to them, they are alright too playing a mixture of famous (?) tunes and some of their own and we watch the sunset listening to the likes of the Seekers and a song about Sea shells (my favourite).

Day 238

Off in the morning to Denmark for a look around and a spot of shopping. Walk around the little town on a hill and there’s a definite alternative vibe going on. A few people with dreadlocks strolling about and every other shop seems to be offering some alternative therapy or another. Get what we need and pay a visit to Ocean beach where the surf is supposed to be good (it’s been a while since I’ve had a surf).

The surf does look quite good but unfortunately I’ve left the surfboard back at the campsite so we carry on to Greens pool and Elephant rocks. So called because the water looks green and is protected from the Ocean by huge (Elephant sized) rocks.

Still a bit overcast when we arrive so we take a stroll up the beach and admire (and climb all over) the huge rocks and by the time we get back to the beach the sun has got his hat on again so we are both in for a dip (Carmen’s first time in the Southern Ocean).

Back at the campsite and you are allowed a little fire to warm your cockles of an evening (or whatever else you want to warm) so a small fire is built and the emergency marshmallows come out and we get chatting to some fellow travellers over a beer and a wine.

Day 239

Time to move on again today so Polly is packed and ready for the off and we take the shortish drive into Albany. After a visit to the information we decide on a beachside campsite at Emu beach just out of town and so head up there to set up. Of course it’s still school holidays and so the place is packed with kids on every conceivable form of transport zooming about the place and so as soon as we have set up we head for the beach for a bit of relaxation and a bit of peace and quiet (I think I’m getting old).

The beach is situated about halfway along King George’s sound (a giant inlet) and so the water is nice and calm and actually seems to be a bit warmer than before so we both enjoy a swim about, a laze in the sun for a bit and most of all the peace and quiet.

Day 240

A day exploring Albany today and so as soon as we are up, fed and watered we head back into the city. Albany is a port city but the docks seem to be tucked neatly out of the way of the CBD, so much so that until we visited the museum we didn’t really realise just how much cargo (mainly grain and timber) passes through there. Plus they have a strange arrangement where you can’t actually go and look at the docks as it is all closed government land.

The Western Australian museum however enlightens us to the significance of the port and its history being used as an important staging post during the war (s). The museum is also playing host to an excellent photographic exhibition on Australia’s flora and fauna with some amazing and beautiful photos in which we both get lost for an hour or two.

Just outside the museum they have built a replica of the famous ‘Amity’ ship, which ferried the first settlers from Sydney to Albany to set up what was going to be the capital of W.A. at the time.

It’s not a large ship and considering how many people and animals were on board it must have been quite a squeeze and probably not a pleasant cruise around the ocean.

Head off to have a stroll up the main street of the city, which is nice and (for once) does not seem to be filled with all the usual high street shops. There are many more independent retailers than usual and there seem to be quite a few Op shops (charity shops for our English readers). This gives the whole place a unique feeling and is a welcome change to the usual run of big brands and we spend a lot more time browsing

At the top of the town we come across Albany’s famous ‘dog rock’. Legend has it that the first settlers brought a dog with them, which was promptly killed by the indigenous people and overnight this huge rock rose out of the ground on the spot which he was killed.

Take a short drive out of the city to the Albany’s Wind farm. Perched on the cliffs the farm provides nearly half of the city’s power requirements and on a breezy day (like today) they strike quite an imposing sight stretching along the coastline. We take a walk around the turbines, stopping at a few lookouts back to the city and over the ocean and both think that with all of W.A.’s (windy) coastline there could and should be a lot more of these.

We brought a windmill for Polly!

Time to pop back to the camp for a shower and get ready to honour our dinner invitation with Lynne and Grenville (the people whose phone we used when we locked the keys in the van). An English couple who have both been here for over 30 years (Grenville was one of the original £10 Pome’s). We are welcomed in like part of the family and treated to a lovely home cooked meal all made with home-grown vegetables and I even manage to force down 2 helpings of desert (not much forcing required)! We chat the evening away with tales of all of our travels and return to the campsite, full and happy, thinking we should lock the keys in the van more often!!

Day 241

Time to leave Albany, heading east towards Esperance. It’s a bit far to go in one day and unfortunately all of the National Parks enroute are 4WD only so we decide to have a lay-over in the sleepy seaside village of Hopetoun. Stopping for fuel on the way I nip into the gents and am a little surprised to see an advert for Ken’s mobile sharpening service on the cistern. The reason I am a little surprised is that I have been seeing these stickers since northern Queensland! All I can say is that Ken must be pretty dedicated to his job.

“Hello, Kens’s mobile sharpening service”

“Hi Ken I’ve got a knife that needs sharpening”

“OK, where are you?”

‘I’m outside Albany in W.A.”

“Righto, see you in 2 weeks!!”

A 50km detour off the highway (good for the km’s) the tiny village of Hopetoun consists of little more than a pub and a shop (which are both closed!). We check into the caravan park and after setting up we head down to the beach for a stroll. The beach is quite nice but we are both tired after a long drive and so head back to the van for some dinner and an early night.