Fremantle to Cape Leuwin National Park

Day 224

Time to pack up and leave Fremantle, heading south for destination unknown.

Feels good to be back on the road again and I think Polly is enjoying the open road as much as we are as she purrs along as we re-join highway 1 and continue our journey.

Drive past Rockingham and after a brief stop at Mandurah for some shopping we decide to head for Yalgorup National Park. Turn off the highway and are, almost straight away back on a gravel road heading for the campsite. The road is pretty rough and corrugated but thankfully not too long and before long we have set up for the night in amongst the forest. Great to back in a National Park again, large sites with no neighbours and only $14 a night!

Take a stroll down to one of (the many) lakes in the area and consider a swim but the sun is not out and it’s a bit chilly so instead return to the campsite and settle in for a quiet night.

Day 225

After negotiating the corrugated road again we head, just a short drive further down the coast and past Bunbury to Bustling Busselton in Geographe bay. It’s still school holidays and the place is packed with holidaymakers (it’s a popular spot with Perthites) and after finding a couple of full campsites we have to settle for ‘Busselton villas’ just a bit out of town. I nearly fall off my chair (and probably would have if I had been sitting on one!) when the woman tells us it’s $58 a night!!

Well for this sort of money we were both expecting absolute luxury camping with an ensuite spa and a waiter to pour your wine. Instead we have to settle for toilets with no soap (a pet hate of mine) and a further charge of $2 to use the BBQ’s! If you ever find yourself in Busselton I would recommend sleeping in your car, on the beach or even getting arrested and spending a night in the cells rather than staying at this place. The shock of the cost still sinking in we jump on the bikes and head, along the cycle path and into town for a look around. Not much to the town itself but Busselton’s claim to fame is that it is home to the largest timber pile jetty in Western Australia (and what a claim that is!). The jetty is pretty and at 2KM long seems to reach far out into the ocean but we decide to save the walk to the end and back for tomorrow.

We return to the campsite half expecting the free drink to be flowing (they have to justify the cost somehow) but alas we are disappointed again and after cooking in the van (I refused to pay for the BBQ) we retire, intent on getting our money’s worth tomorrow somehow.

Day 226

Still smarting over the cost of the campsite we head off on the bikes into Busselton again to tackle the jetty. We lock the bikes up and pay our entry fee ($2.50 each) and rather than take the train (there is a train along the jetty) we decide to walk the length (and back) and so set off.

It’s pretty boring really, just a jetty with not much to look at except the sea and the land but as we near  the end the train passes us (heading back to shore), full of screaming children and I notice that the engine is at the front again (I’m sure it was at the front heading out).

We make it to the end and are slightly disappointed to find all that is there is a gift shop and entrance to the (expensive) Underwater Experience (an underwater observatory) and both think they are missing a trick here and should have at least a chip shop!

We both look at the end of the train tracks and there doesn’t appear to be any way the train can physically turn around, no turntable, no siding no nothing. No one else seems to be concerned about this but it begins to eat at me. How can the engine always be at the front with no way of turning it around?

Consumed with intrigue we now have to wait for the train to come all the way back so we can see how it is done during which time various theories are discussed and analysed. After what seems like an age the train comes back and would you believe that it’s not a train at all but a small tractor, with wheels pulling the carriages.

Cheat!

Luckily we hadn’t paid money to go on the ‘train’ or I would be demanding a refund. Train indeed!!

Mystery solved we walk back along the jetty and have another stroll through town, in case we missed anything yesterday (we didn’t) before returning along the cycle path to the campsite.

It’s turned into a nice sunny afternoon so we head down to the beach for a swim and a sunbathe and return to the camp where we are both hopeful once again that our money is going to include more than just a campsite (we were both disappointed once more).

Day 227

Pack up in the morning as it’s time to move on (we can’t afford another night) and head just around the corner, past Cape Naturaliste to the famous surf beach at Yalingup. The town itself consists of little more than a shop and a café but the beach is lovely (if only the sun were out) and is packed with holiday makers and surfers alike.

We stop for a look but as its grey and overcast decide not to stay here and instead head further south, past the town of Margaret River to Cape Leeuwin National Park. Considering how busy the roads have been around here we are thinking the National Park campground is going to be chokka block with campers but are both pleasantly surprised to see that it is in fact half empty and there are plenty of spots left. Pull into Hamelin hollow campground (which Carmen thinks sounds a bit Harry Potter) and set up in a nice spot with some shade for Polly and some sun for the solars.

The ranger comes around and we pay for 3 nights (which at $14 a night is cheaper than one night in Busselton!) and immediately find a discarded car aerial in the undergrowth which I soon fashion (with the aid of an empty can) in a Mc Guyver/A-team kind of way into an improved radio aerial improving our reception no end.

Day 228

Head off in the morning and drive back up the coast a bit to visit Margaret River. A busy little town with some nice (albeit expensive) shops. Stroll up and down the main street and visit the tourist information to pick up a map and decide to do our own little tour of the breweries in the area in the hope of picking up some local brews to taste test.

The roads are difficult to navigate and the signage is rubbish, tiny little things right on the actual crossings and so after several missed turns we finally arrive at our first brewery. The Cowramup brewery is nestled in the hills with geese in the front yard and a packed car park. We head inside and look for the shop but seeing there isn’t one we enquire at the bar about getting some take aways (I’m on my P plates remember and so can’t drink at all whilst driving). Turns out the only take away beer they do is in a fancy 2 litre bottle and costs a fortune (refills are cheaper) but not being able to try anything first we have no idea which (if any) of the beers we might like and so we make tracks for the next brewery.

The Duckstein brewery is equally as difficult to find and once we do it’s the same story, no bottled beer! The guy offers us a tasting platter of beer but reluctantly we have to decline and instead we jump back in the van, pinning all of our hopes in the final brewery. 

The Bootleg brewery is (thankfully) slightly easier to find and once we do we approach the bar, hopeful that this is the one and to our relief they do have bottled beer for sale! We buy a mixed six pack, one of each of their brews and happy that we have finally managed to purchase something head back to the van and drive back to the campsite. A bit different to our wine tasting tour the other day!

Back at the campsite I head off on the bike to have a look around and see how far away the beach is. I cycle down to the cliffs above the beach (not too far) and see that we are right on the route of the ‘Cape to Cape’ walk.

Stretching from Cape Naturaliste in the north to cape Leeuwin in the south, the walk is 140km long and is split into 5 sections. Returning to the campsite we decide to tackle a section of the walk tomorrow.

Day 229

Up at a reasonable time and after a hearty breakfast of eggs in bread (Ray would be proud) we head off to tackle part of the cape to cape walk. The day is just right for walking, not too hot with a bit of a breeze and so with a spring in our steps we start along the cliff top track.

Our chosen route takes us north along the coast, passing many secluded beaches and coves and through lush vegetation all the while following the line of the cliffs.

After continuing on for a couple of hours trek we finally descend down towards the beach, passing some rock climbers scaling the limestone cliffs before coming to a series of caves and finally out into open scrub land where we decide to stop for lunch looking out over the Indian Ocean.

Bellies full we basically have to turn around and retrace our steps back up onto the cliff top and all the way back along to the campsite where we started.

Exhausted but happy (we must have done about 12km) we cook ourselves some dinner and retire for a good night’s sleep.

Perth to Fremantle

Day 218

Time to leave camp Karinyup for pastures new and so all of our worldly possessions go back into Polly and we hit the road. Before arriving at our new home for the next few days we take a detour to call into see an old friend of my brothers (Adrian) from our days in Huntingdon growing up.

It must be 25 years since I saw David and obviously the first time we have met his wife Lauren and their kids Brayden and Charlotte. We are welcomed like old friends though and before long the BBQ is fired up and we are soon tucking into a beautiful lunch. Much chatting and catching up on old Huntingdon stories later we bid them farewell and head off to our new home at the ‘Perth vineyards campsite’, just a short drive away. Once again we are blown away by peoples hospitality and cannot believe how we can turn up at (relatively) complete strangers houses and are welcomed in like members of the family. Thanks guys!

We arrive and set up in a nice shady spot overlooking the vineyards and are immediately greeted by a flock of Galah’s landing noisily in the tree next to us, where they stay and have a good look at us for a bit before flying off (the ducks from Karinyup must have told them they would probably get fed if they hang around).

David and Lauren had given us an old fan that they had lying around and so we plug it straight in and what a boon it turns out to be (Can’t believe we have survived so long without one!) and we sit back to watch a glorious sunset with the cool breeze washing over us.

Once night falls we see that some people on this campsite have gone a bit over the top with their decorations and lights and I am half expecting light aircraft to start landing in the campsite as it is lit up like a Christmas tree (boom, boom).

Reindeer pulling a caravan!

Too much?

Day 219

Exciting day today as we are off on our Perth valley wine tour. So after a quick breakfast we jump on the bikes and head on a nice little ride through the vineyards to historic Guildford to get the tour bus, the sun is out already and its shaping up to be another hot one and we are both hoping that the bus has air conditioning.

We get on the bus and are straight off to our first winery called ‘Waters edge’, which although it sits on the banks of the Swan River was actually named after Mr Waters who originally set the place up! Straight in to the old cellar and (once another tour group arrives) it’s on with the tasting! Bearing in mind it is about 10.30 in the morning the 12 or so wines (6 whites and 6 reds) go down quite well and as we climb back aboard the bus everyone is feeling a bit merrier.

No let up and we are straight onto the Lancaster winery where another half dozen (or so) wines are tasted. Nestled right within the vines the tasting shed is a lovely spot and thankfully we get a platter of cheese and crackers with our wines to soak up some of the alcohol.

Again there is no let-up in the pace and we are off to our third winery of the day, ‘Windy Creek Estate’. This is a family owned and run place and has a much smaller production that the other two but has some lovely reds and Ports too and after sampling another 15 wines and ports (before lunch!) we purchase a lovely bottle of their Shiraz to take away with us.

Back on the bus and by now some of the people are obviously feeling the effects of a mornings drinking as there are some red faces and loud voices and one girl is even having a kip already. Our tour guide is a slave driver though and we are off to our next stop and thankfully some lunch. After sampling another 4 wines we settle down to a nice cold meat platter for lunch and (vocal chords feeling lubricated) get chatting to an English couple who have just emigrated a few weeks back. Turns out one the girl is from Peterborough! (The next town from where I grew up for our Australian readers).

Lunch consumed we are herded back on the bus and make off for our final winery of the day, ‘Chesters’. Another family run operation and recent award winner for their wines. I think we sample another half dozen wines (It’s all getting a bit hazy by now) and we both seem to remember they were quite nice but to be honest they could have given us paint stripper by now and no one would have known!

Back on the bus and the wine tasting finished with what better to do than visit a brewery for some beer tasting!! A beer is actually quite refreshing after all that wine and as we are hanging around for a bit we decide to buy another drink after the tasting is finished.

We are poured back into the bus and onto our final stop of the day, a chocolate factory! Not so much a factory but a giant shop but there are bowls of free chocolate buttons and its help yourself. Perhaps this wasn’t a good idea after a full days drinking but I am in like Flynn, grabbing handfuls of buttons and probably go back 6 or 7 times to get more before going outside and lying on the grass (along with quite a few others) instantly regretting eating so much.

We waddle back to the bus and the driver takes us back to Guildford where of course we have to get on the bikes and cycle back to the campsite. Considering we have been drinking all day we are actually not feeling too drunk and the cycle ride doesn’t take too long although it is still hot and we are both sweaty by the time we get back.

We collapse out the front of Polly and both have a little sleep before setting the bed up and turning in for an early night to sleep it all off.

Day 220

Time to pack up and head off again to Fremantle for our New Years Eve campsite but call in at Karinyup one more time to pick up some Christmas mail that has finally arrived (Thanks Mark and Dad). It’s red hot today and head over to the campsite and choose a small spot in between some bushes which we think will at least offer us some shade and restbite from the heat.

Pop down to the shops for a look and to get some food and call in at the local on the way back for a cooling ale before spending the rest of the afternoon trying to keep cool out of the sun.

Day 221

Catch the bus in to Fremantle and after a quick visit to the tourist information to see what is on for New year decide to conduct our own research in the form of a walking tour of the pubs and breweries (it is the festive season after all).

First stop is the Little Creatures brewery right on the waterfront and we enjoy a glass of their pale ale straight from the vat. Turns out the pirate themed party for tomorrow night is sold out and so we have no option but to continue on to the next pub just around the corner.

Lookout London eye it's the Freo Ferris!

Little creatures brewery

‘The Orient Hotel’ is a nice local pub housed in one of Freo’s beautiful old buildings, nice high ceilings inside and what would appear to be original timber fretwork make for a cosy atmosphere and although they do have tickets left for tomorrow it is $100 a go! (that does include free food and drink).

On to ‘the Newport’ right on the high street and another nice cool and airy building and a Mexican themed New year party here which is $10 in and includes one drink and a sombrero!

Good name for a bottle shop

Just down the street we come to the ‘Sail and Anchor’ an award winning microbrewery pub with over 45 beers on tap! We opt to share a tasting paddle consisting of 3 homemade and 3 guest beers and that goes down so well that we get another one with 6 different beers on it! No cover charge for new year here but get here early is the advice.

Tasting paddle No.1

Tasting paddle No.2

Our final stop of the day is the Norfolk Hotel and a lovely courtyard come beer garden where we sample the ginger beer and see that they have a ticketed party with DJ’s and live bands for tomorrow night.

Our research done we head back on the bus and decide that we will probably just hang around the campsite tomorrow night and if we are feeling particularly bored may go across to “Ed’s sports bar’ to welcome in 2012!

Day 222

New year’s eve

A lie in this morning (9.30) and once we had made it out of bed we took our time over having bacon and eggs for breakfast. Once this was finished we decided to go to the beach for a swim and a lie in the sun and so jumped on the bikes and cycled 5mins down the path to South beach.

Locked the bikes up and hit the beach where we joined the New Year’s Eve revellers for a dip and a sunbathe (there wasn’t much revelling going on). A beautiful sunny day again but not too hot so we managed to sit there for quite a while watching the world go by.

Once we had enough we packed up and cycled back the campsite to get ready for the big night ahead. Our friends in Sydney were 3 hours ahead of us so were already going out and starting their celebrations but we had to pace ourselves tonight (although all the drinking training we had been going through over the last week should hold us in good stead).

We sit around the van for a while and at 9 o’clock head over to the TV room to watch the Sydney fireworks. Although it is technically midnight in Sydney they are showing a repeat of the 9 o’clock kids fireworks here, reserving the big show for midnight.

Fireworks watched we take a stroll over to Ed’s sports bar just across the road where there is a fancy dress theme and being a ‘sports bar’(whatever that is) the theme is come as your sporting hero.

The TV is on and sure enough as midnight approaches the spectacular Sydney fireworks come on and amid hugs, kisses and cries of Happy New Year we watch the show. Funny to think that it was only a year ago we were there at the Opera bar watching these for real.

Perhaps what we both find more strange is that although WA actively appears to try and distance itself from the rest of Australia, when it comes to a large celebration like this they still have to rely on the Eastern side to provide the entertainment (neither Perth or Fremantle had any public celebrations).

Midnight over and done with we head back to the campsite and crack open a bottle of bubbly which we proceed to drink before turning in and drawing a close on 2011.

Day 223

New Year’s Day 2012

After last night’s knees up we are both feeling a bit delicate this morning and so after having a good long lie in Carmen refuses to put the bed away and proceeds to stay in it all day.

I make my way over to the ‘Internet room’ where I had figured out how to get free internet on my computer (simply plug in the network cable!).

We spent most of the day in relaxation mode and finally got ourselves together on the evening to cook and pack up Polly for our onward journey tomorrow.

Neither of us have really taken to Perth in the 5 weeks that we have been here, I’m not sure if it was the poor public transport system (especially after dark) or the sea of endless suburbia filled with Noddy houses but we are both looking forward to getting back on the road again.