Uluru to West Macdonald ranges

Day 105

Beard update, 2 weeks and counting, still a bit fluffy but certainly getting there.

Up at a reasonable, pack up and were off 314 Km’s (which is not all that far out here) to Kings canyon. Basically a huge canyon and is billed as ‘Australia’s Grand Canyon’.

Arrive and check in to the only campsite and go to set up. A minor annoyance where we think someone is in our spot but turns out not to be (my mistake) and we are set.

There is a 7KM walk around the rim of the canyon and we were going to do it in the morning as it is nice and cool then but after thinking about it we decide that it would be better to do it today and have a good night’s sleep before another big drive rather than do it in the morning and then have to drive so off we go.

Its only early afternoon and so is still scorching hot when we start and are immediately faced with a steep climb up the side of the canyon to start with. “Mad dogs and Englishmen” Carmen pants halfway up but we persevere and make it to the top with lots of little stops on the way.

We are rewarded with a spectacular view along the canyon and get an idea of how far we have  to go, right around the rim of it and back down the other side!

As we continue along the landscape is amazing, the rocks look like some sort of lost city or a film set and it all feels very surreal.

There were some good signs!

This used to be the sea floor!

About halfway round you detour from the rim and come across a long narrow crevice in the rocks called ‘the garden of Eden’ and you can see why. It’ s a beautiful oasis with a permanent water hole at the bottom and filled with rare and ancient plants and animals.

Back to the canyon and at the halfway point you are right at the end of the canyon and can look down over the edge (very carefully) to see the bottom and the sheer sides, breathtaking (literally).

    

Continue along the edge of the rim before descending (much easier than ascending) back down to the carpark, where I think the heat has got to me as I go all ‘Gangsta’ much to Carmen’s amusement!

Gangsta

Realise that we have possibly just invented a walking challenge!! Richard and Carmen’s ‘Red Centre Endurance challenge’ (3 walks, 3 days).

Day 1 - ‘Round the rock’ (10.6KM),

Day 2 -  ‘Over the Olgas (7.4KM)’,

Day 3 -  ‘Climb the canyon (7KM)’

All including transporting yourself to the three locations. Whew!

Return to the campsite for a big feed and a cold beer, job well done!

Day 106

Leave Kings Canyon and face a dilemma, take an unsealed (marked as 4WD) road 100KM straight back to the highway or go back the way we came (more backtracking) on a sealed road for about 300KM’s to the same point?

We Umm and Arrr (like pirates) for a while but decide on the sealed  road (good for the KM’s at least) and so stop to fill up with the most expensive petrol we have seen yet at Kings Creek station $2.14/litre (we have paid $1.30 odd in Sydney!!).

460 (uneventful) KM’s later and we arrive back in Alice springs and head for a campsite just over the road from the one we were at a few days ago called ‘G’day mate’ where we settle in for an early night.

Day 107

Pretty much a rest day (and certainly no hikes) today.

Do washing and head into Alice to catch up some shopping  and in the afternoon drive out to the East Macdonald ranges to a couple of gaps in the mountains (Jessie gap and Emily gap) to see some aboriginal rock art depicting some of the dreamtime stories.

There aren’t too many pictures but it is interesting to note that each family group (they are not called tribes) have slightly different stories relating to their specific area.

Know that we are off into the wilderness for a couple of days so cook up a  big Ruby (Ruby Murray – Curry) in the evening so that we will have leftovers.

Day 108

Up and out to explore the West Macdonald ranges today so fill up (at a much more reasonable $1.62) and first stop, just 10KM’s out is Simpsons gap.

A permanent waterhole in a gap through the ranges. As gaps go it’s a pretty nice one but is far too early in the day to entertain the idea of a swim and plus its started to rain!

I thought we were in the middle of the desert!! Luckily it’s only a short shower and soon blows over to reveal a lovely sunny day again.

Next stop are the Ochre pits where traditionally the aboriginal men collected all the different coloured Ochres for uses in ceremonies and some for medicines and ointments. Its amazing to see all the different colours layered next to one another, like the best paint shop you have ever seen!!

On to Glen Helen Gorge and another permanent waterhole between the ranges and this time the sun is out so it’s a lovely stroll along the waters edge to the gorge and back.

On to our final stop for the day at Ormiston gorge, yet another waterhole in a gorge in the ranges but this one has camping as well so set up and head off on a stroll (‘Steep, strenuous climb’ Carmen says) up the side of the gorge to a lookout and then back down into the gorge and follow it along to the swimming hole.

This time I am prepared (Swimmers on) and so just before the sun sets over the gorge I am in.

 Its freezing but perfect after hiking through the ranges all day and feeling refreshed we return to the campsite in time to see what is billed as ‘an hour long slideshow on the habitat and wildlife of the Macdonald ranges’ by one of the bearded rangers.

Over two hours later, its dark and cold and we are still sitting there (many people have got up and left by now) listening to the bloke rabbit on!

Fair enough he knows his stuff but some of us are cold and thirsty mate!

Day 109

Up with the larks (as usual now) and its cold this morning. After breakfast and a shower were off, just further along the range to Serpentine gorge. Now the road is marked as unsealed but should have been 4x4 really, it’s very rough and Polly is bouncing about but makes it.

A (‘Steep, strenuous’) climb up the side of the gorge leads to a lookout over the whole gorge and the mountain range and what a good view it is. Well worth the climb although we shouldn’t have left our tops in the car as it’s still freezing cold!

Clamber back down and face the rocky road again back to the highway and further up the road is Ellery creek big hole. Yet another gorge (Carmen has had enough of gorges by now) with a big swimming hole and camping.

Set up and have a walk down the gorge (far too cold to swim) and I spot a cave halfway up the rockface…

Even to get there means crossing a fallen log over water (one of my personal favourites) and then the climb to reveal…

Nothing, I had climbed up the wrong bit!

Back to Polly for a relaxing afternoon in preparation for three more days of driving (before we get to our next gorge!!).

More good signs

Desert flowers